Merry Christmas Everyone!
I thought I would share a picture of some paracord crosses that I made for Christmas gifts.
I hope everyone has a wonderful and safe Christmas. Please enjoy family, friends, and loved ones, and remember they are real gifts.
Monday, December 24, 2012
Monday, December 17, 2012
Latest Batch of Creations
Here are some remaining recent creations in paracord that were not sold recently.
The third picture is of three monkey fists that are made to float. The black one was my test case, after making it, I attached a stainless steel split key ring from Lighthound and one common house key. I put it in a bucket of water for over 24 hours. It still floated, so I attached another key on a #.5 Nite-Ize S-Biner, it still floated, even after being completely saturated.
The first picture is of some little fobs that I made with spare cord and downtime in the shows. Three of them have glow-in-the-dark skulls and beads, while the other two use pewter skull beads.
The second picture has some random bracelets that I made, two of them with emergency whistles as the clasp instead of a buckle. There are buckles with whistles available, but these emergency whistles are louder. The idea for these bracelets came from a custom request from a paddle boarder. The woman liked hers so much, she ordered several others for her paddle boarding friends as gifts, those in the picture were extras.
After a series of craft fairs and gun shows, we are going to take a break for awhile. We have also learned some lessons - gun shows still seem to be hte best venue for these items, with rural craft fairs being a second - urban and suburban craft fairs are not very good. We never lost any money on any of the venues, but some were just better than others. Our most recent gun show proved that they are still the best venue, even with other dedicated paracord vendors present at the show, we still did pretty well. Did we lose out to other vendors, most likely, but competition is great, and forces innovation. I not only did fairly well with patrons of the show, I also had many vendors come to me for items. I also received several comments, most on my quality and creativity - like I said, competition is a good thing - it leads to higher quality and more innovation. I also hope that the other paracord vendors did well, since it is more of their livelihood than it is mine - it is just a hobby for me, after all.
Friday, November 16, 2012
Further Self Promotion
Just in case anyone is interseted, I will be doing some craft fairs and shows in late November and December in Palm Beach County:
- Jupiter Lanes Craft Fair and Flea Market on Saturday, Nov. 17 from 8:30 - 1:00
- Jupiter Farms Craft Fair, Sunday, Dec. 2
- West Palm Beach Gun Show, Sat. & Sun., Dec. 15-16
Friday, October 26, 2012
Two Recent Creations
After a few weeks of not doing any tying, I was finally able to sit down and get some projects on the "To Do List" done. After making a few bracelets that were promised, I started work on a custom project that was requested. The request was for a wrist lanyard that would be meant to hold key ring items, but it had to also be sturdy. It was also requested that the lanyard have two cords for loops (instead of one), be red and black in color, and utilize a corkscrew type pattern (a twisted solomon bar).
Once I finished this, I used the left over pieces of black and OD green paracord from a wide solomon bar bracelet I tied before starting on the above. I gutted the four pieces and got a small stainless steel split ring, and began tying a small ringed cross. Instead of covering the split ring with paracord, I left it as is so it would be shiny. The small ringed cross came out to about 2 inches in overall size, and even though the split ring should've been a little large, I really liked the overall size of this ringed cross, as it can be used for several items, such as the end to a key/knife/tool fob, necklace, etc.
I may try to tie some more oif similar size and put a chain through the top loop for use as necklaces.
Hopefully, it won't take me as long to get more projects posted in the future, as well as some other posts in my ongoing series of EDC gear essentials and reveiews.
Here is the finished product:
Hopefully, it won't take me as long to get more projects posted in the future, as well as some other posts in my ongoing series of EDC gear essentials and reveiews.
Friday, October 12, 2012
Let There Be Light
This post is another installment of my EDC Gear reviews and information. This post is going to focus on the topic of light, or more specifically the importance of having a flashlight as part of your EDC gear.
I've been into flashlights for as long as I can remember. As with many of my interests, I guess it was my grandfather that started it all. He used to keep a flashlight in every room of the house, in the sheds, in the vehicles, pretty much everywhere. It became a running theme for me to find some kind of new or intersting flashlight to give him as a Christmas gift.
Well, flashlights sure have come a long way over the past 30 years. Now, one can obtain a flashlight that fits on a key ring, takes one AAA battery, and emits more light than the old incandescent flashlights that ran off of the large 6V lantern batteries thanks to state of the art LED technology.
I recommend that having a flashlight in your vehicle and major rooms of the dwelling, and those can be of any size. My personal facorites for the cars and house are the Mag Lite 2D and 3D cells with LEDs. They put out plenty of light, are extremely sturdy and water resistant (unless you completely submerge them for a great length of time), and in a pinch, can be used as a self-defense tool.
However, since most of us are not law enforcement or security personnel, most of us will not be walking around with a duty belt that has a Mag Lite hanging on it. Therefore, I am devoting this post to discussing flashlights that can carried by almost anyone as part of their overall EDC gear.
Let me begin by stating that a flashlight, in my opinion, is one of the three essential items of an overall EDC kit: flashlight; knife; lighter or matches (preferably a lighter). With those three items, one will be able to address most of the problems / obstacles / chores faced in everyday life. There are exceptions of course, and additions (such as a small minor first aid kit), but those three should be able to assist in most daily tasks. I will address the other two in future posts, but will focus on flashlights in this post.
If you have ever started looking for flashlights for EDC, you probably have seen the wide variety of options, as well as a wide range of prices. While that may seem daunting, it is actually beneficial, as one should be able to find a flashlight that not only meets their ligt output needs, but also their budget. Since there are thousands of flashlights to choose from, I am going to focus more on the characteristics of a good EDC flashlight, in my humble opinion, and then provide examples of what I use for EDC.
When considering an EDC flashlight, I look for a few characteristics. First is the size. The flashlight needs to be small enough and thin enough to carry in pocket comfortably. There are plenty of small flashlights that are inexpensive on the market, but most of them are lacking in other important features.
Next, the brightness of the flashlight. There are a few different ways that the brightness of a flashlight are expressed, especially the LED ones. For simplicity sake, I will refer to lumens instead of candlepower or watts. For a primary EDC flashlight, I typically look for one that is in the 30-60 lumens range. I've found that anything higher than that tends to reflect too much light off walls. There are reasons to have flashlights with higher output, but those are more specialized in nature. I've found that 30-60 lumens should be adequate for most tasks (it wasn't too long ago that many of the very high end weapons lights were rated at 60 lumens).
Third, is ergonomics. Specifically as they relate to the operation of the flashlight. Flashlights have several ways to turn them on and off, from twisting the tail caps or headlamps to buttons. I prefer flashlights to have buttons, especially tailcap buttons. A button allows the flashlight to be used one-handed, whereas the twisting kind require both hands.
Fourth, I prefer LEDs over incandescent or xenon. LEDs last a lot longer. The diode can last thousands of hours, whereas incandescent or xenon bulbs will burn out much faster. Additionally, LEDs are more efficient and get more life from the batteries. LEDs are also cooler in temperature - incandescent, xenon, halogen, etc. all get very hot, especially in the higher lumens flashlights. Lastly, I prefer the light that the LED produces, it is, in my opinion, cleaner.
Fifth, the types of batteries used. I prefer to get flashlights that use standard battery types, especially AA and AAA. AA and AAA batteries can be found almost anywhere, and they are relatively inexpensive. I try to avoid getting lights that require the CR123 batteries, or other more difficult types like AAAA or the watch type batteries. CR123 batteries can make the flashlight smaller with higher output, but they are not always available and are more expensive than AA or AAA. I reserve my CR123s for use in dedicated weapon lights.
Lastly, is the price. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on an EDC flashlight. I will admit, I have done it, but regret it, due to the speed at which flashlight technology changes. Price will also dictate how many compromises or sacrifices you will need to make on the above features. However, after much trial and error, I finally found a few options that meet most, if not all, of the above criteria, and still remain relatively inexpensive.
The two lights I carry with me as part of my EDC are the Streamlight Stylus Pro and a Life+Gear Mini Aluminum Flashlight Keychain.
The Stylus Pro is always carried in a pocket with the pocket clip and is hardly noticeable. It is about the size of a pen, but is sturdy and produces a good amount of light. I've used it a number of times for variuos tasks since I purchased it. I really like this light and may end up purchasing one or two more, just to have extras. Granted, it is not really low priced, especially you can get a package of 3 or 4 LED flashlights from a Big Box store for the price of this one light. But this one light, in my opinion, meets all of my criteria for an EDC flashlight the best.
The Life+Gear Mini Aluminum Flashlight I found at Target for a price I couldn't pass up, so I bought about 5 or 6 of them. If I come across anymore at the price I found them for, I will buy more. It is a handy little light that I have clipped on a #0 S-Biner on my Nite Ize S-Biner Key Rack. I have used this light even more than I have Stylus Pro, especially for opening house door locks in the dark. You will notice that the light has a lot of wear to the black finish, that is from the key rack, but I think it also adds some character to the little light.
The above picture shows their light in a fully lit room. They are quite bright and their beams do go a good distance. Even though the Stylus Pro is not a dedicated weapon light, I would have no problem using it for that purpose if I had to, especially since its slim prfile would allow for a modified two-handed grip as opposed to the supported one-handed grip.
There are several flasjlights to choose from out there, so choose one (or more) that best suit your needs and budget. While the Stylus Pro and the Life+Gear Mini Aluminum work for me, they may not suit everyone's needs.
Stay Safe. Be Prepared. Defeat the Dark.
I've been into flashlights for as long as I can remember. As with many of my interests, I guess it was my grandfather that started it all. He used to keep a flashlight in every room of the house, in the sheds, in the vehicles, pretty much everywhere. It became a running theme for me to find some kind of new or intersting flashlight to give him as a Christmas gift.
Well, flashlights sure have come a long way over the past 30 years. Now, one can obtain a flashlight that fits on a key ring, takes one AAA battery, and emits more light than the old incandescent flashlights that ran off of the large 6V lantern batteries thanks to state of the art LED technology.
I recommend that having a flashlight in your vehicle and major rooms of the dwelling, and those can be of any size. My personal facorites for the cars and house are the Mag Lite 2D and 3D cells with LEDs. They put out plenty of light, are extremely sturdy and water resistant (unless you completely submerge them for a great length of time), and in a pinch, can be used as a self-defense tool.
However, since most of us are not law enforcement or security personnel, most of us will not be walking around with a duty belt that has a Mag Lite hanging on it. Therefore, I am devoting this post to discussing flashlights that can carried by almost anyone as part of their overall EDC gear.
Let me begin by stating that a flashlight, in my opinion, is one of the three essential items of an overall EDC kit: flashlight; knife; lighter or matches (preferably a lighter). With those three items, one will be able to address most of the problems / obstacles / chores faced in everyday life. There are exceptions of course, and additions (such as a small minor first aid kit), but those three should be able to assist in most daily tasks. I will address the other two in future posts, but will focus on flashlights in this post.
If you have ever started looking for flashlights for EDC, you probably have seen the wide variety of options, as well as a wide range of prices. While that may seem daunting, it is actually beneficial, as one should be able to find a flashlight that not only meets their ligt output needs, but also their budget. Since there are thousands of flashlights to choose from, I am going to focus more on the characteristics of a good EDC flashlight, in my humble opinion, and then provide examples of what I use for EDC.
When considering an EDC flashlight, I look for a few characteristics. First is the size. The flashlight needs to be small enough and thin enough to carry in pocket comfortably. There are plenty of small flashlights that are inexpensive on the market, but most of them are lacking in other important features.
Next, the brightness of the flashlight. There are a few different ways that the brightness of a flashlight are expressed, especially the LED ones. For simplicity sake, I will refer to lumens instead of candlepower or watts. For a primary EDC flashlight, I typically look for one that is in the 30-60 lumens range. I've found that anything higher than that tends to reflect too much light off walls. There are reasons to have flashlights with higher output, but those are more specialized in nature. I've found that 30-60 lumens should be adequate for most tasks (it wasn't too long ago that many of the very high end weapons lights were rated at 60 lumens).
Third, is ergonomics. Specifically as they relate to the operation of the flashlight. Flashlights have several ways to turn them on and off, from twisting the tail caps or headlamps to buttons. I prefer flashlights to have buttons, especially tailcap buttons. A button allows the flashlight to be used one-handed, whereas the twisting kind require both hands.
Fourth, I prefer LEDs over incandescent or xenon. LEDs last a lot longer. The diode can last thousands of hours, whereas incandescent or xenon bulbs will burn out much faster. Additionally, LEDs are more efficient and get more life from the batteries. LEDs are also cooler in temperature - incandescent, xenon, halogen, etc. all get very hot, especially in the higher lumens flashlights. Lastly, I prefer the light that the LED produces, it is, in my opinion, cleaner.
Fifth, the types of batteries used. I prefer to get flashlights that use standard battery types, especially AA and AAA. AA and AAA batteries can be found almost anywhere, and they are relatively inexpensive. I try to avoid getting lights that require the CR123 batteries, or other more difficult types like AAAA or the watch type batteries. CR123 batteries can make the flashlight smaller with higher output, but they are not always available and are more expensive than AA or AAA. I reserve my CR123s for use in dedicated weapon lights.
Lastly, is the price. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on an EDC flashlight. I will admit, I have done it, but regret it, due to the speed at which flashlight technology changes. Price will also dictate how many compromises or sacrifices you will need to make on the above features. However, after much trial and error, I finally found a few options that meet most, if not all, of the above criteria, and still remain relatively inexpensive.
The two lights I carry with me as part of my EDC are the Streamlight Stylus Pro and a Life+Gear Mini Aluminum Flashlight Keychain.
The Life+Gear Mini Aluminum Flashlight I found at Target for a price I couldn't pass up, so I bought about 5 or 6 of them. If I come across anymore at the price I found them for, I will buy more. It is a handy little light that I have clipped on a #0 S-Biner on my Nite Ize S-Biner Key Rack. I have used this light even more than I have Stylus Pro, especially for opening house door locks in the dark. You will notice that the light has a lot of wear to the black finish, that is from the key rack, but I think it also adds some character to the little light.
The above picture shows their light in a fully lit room. They are quite bright and their beams do go a good distance. Even though the Stylus Pro is not a dedicated weapon light, I would have no problem using it for that purpose if I had to, especially since its slim prfile would allow for a modified two-handed grip as opposed to the supported one-handed grip.
There are several flasjlights to choose from out there, so choose one (or more) that best suit your needs and budget. While the Stylus Pro and the Life+Gear Mini Aluminum work for me, they may not suit everyone's needs.
Stay Safe. Be Prepared. Defeat the Dark.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Rained Out For The Second Time
So, I attempted to have a table at a monthly craft show that is out side and got rained out for the second time. I did not have to pay for the space since it was still in the morning, but I'm starting to wonder if I should just stop trying to do that monthly show. I was able to sell one bracelet before the show was cancelled.
Oh well, maybe next time.
Oh well, maybe next time.
Friday, September 21, 2012
Basic Knife Care, Part 2
So, here's part two of my extremely general and basic knife care posts. Before going further, let me get this out of the way, just in case - please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, and eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
Okay, so now on to the next topic - carbon and alloy steels. As with my Part 1 on stainless steels, I am not going to get technical on steel composition or types. Just as there are several different types of stainless steels, there are also several different types of carbon and alloy steels. Each one has different properties and some may require more TLC than others, but I am going to keep it very, very genreal and basic. I will probably do a follow up post in the near future with some links and suggested reading for anyone that wants to learn more about knife steels, shapes, point variations, edges and grinds. All of those do matter when one is selecting and caring for a knife, but it is also beyond the scope of my intent with these posts. These posts are more designed for the reader that may already have a knife or two, but not really know much about them. We've all been there at one point in time...
So, carbon and alloy steels. Without getting too technical, these steels require more maintenance and TLC than stainless steels, especially when it comes to corrosion prevention. Most carbon and alloy steels lack the chromium content of stainless steels, making them more susceptible to corrosion, or staining. Therefore, where having a light coat of oil was suggested for the stainless steel blades, it is mandatory for carbon and alloy steels (at least in my book). Again, avoid WD-40, instead go with a good gun oil or mineral spirits. Also, I use petroleum jelly on some of my carbon and alloy baldes, especially if I know they will be in a high salt environment or in storage for a long period. It is a little messier, but I would rather have that than the alternative.
Many carbon and alloy steel blades will come with some kind of coating on blade for added corrosion resistance - all but the edge. In this case, a coating of mineral spirits or oil is still required on the edge, otherwise the edge will stain. If left for too long, the staining will dull the edge. Even with the protective coating, it is a good idea to keep the entire blade lightly coated with oil, just in case.
All the suggestions for folders found in Part 1 would hold for folders made from these types of steels. Fortunately, unless your folder happens to be extremely old, or a very high productioln or custom folder, chances are any folder you have will have some kind of stainless steel.
So, you may be thinking to yourself, "if carbon and alloy steels require so much more attention and love, why bother, when there are great stainless blades out there."
The answer, in the most simplests of terms, is that a knife, just like any other tool, is better suited to some tasks than others. All else being equal, and again, in the most general sense, carbon and alloy steels tend to be stronger and tougher than stainless steels. They are also generally easier to work with and are easier to forge. Stainless steels are okay in blades (generally) with lengths of about 4" or less. Stainless steel blades, generally, that are longer than that tend to have a problem with lateral stress, and can break easier when experiencing those types of stresses. Again, I am going to leave out all of the technical jargon, but this is due to the differences in heat treatments and hardness levels (Rockwell Hardness) present in carbon and alloy steels versus stainless steels.
So, given the above, I would much rather have a long fixed blade knife or sword made from carbon or alloy steel. Sure we've all seen the pretty "440 Series" or "400 series" Stainless Steel swords and katanas. They might even be very sharp (but usually not). But in my opinion, they are only good for decoration, I would never trust my life to a long blade made from stainless steel. There are of course some exceptions to this hard and fast rule, but they are few, and I can't think of any exceptions when it comes to swords.
A good rule of thumb (in my opinion) is that if the blade is going to be long (over 4" - 5") and it is going to see hard use (think machete), it should be made from carbon or alloy steel, and NOT stainless steel, no matter how pretty and decorative the shiny stainless steel makes it look.
Another nice thing about most carbon and alloy steels is that they can also be easier to sharpen and still hold a good edge.
In case anyone wanted an example - the USMC Ka-Bar, viewed by many, even after 60 years, as the penultimate fighting/survival/utility knife, is forged from 1095 Carbon steel.
As stated at the beginning, please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, and eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
I hope this post was helpful.
Okay, so now on to the next topic - carbon and alloy steels. As with my Part 1 on stainless steels, I am not going to get technical on steel composition or types. Just as there are several different types of stainless steels, there are also several different types of carbon and alloy steels. Each one has different properties and some may require more TLC than others, but I am going to keep it very, very genreal and basic. I will probably do a follow up post in the near future with some links and suggested reading for anyone that wants to learn more about knife steels, shapes, point variations, edges and grinds. All of those do matter when one is selecting and caring for a knife, but it is also beyond the scope of my intent with these posts. These posts are more designed for the reader that may already have a knife or two, but not really know much about them. We've all been there at one point in time...
So, carbon and alloy steels. Without getting too technical, these steels require more maintenance and TLC than stainless steels, especially when it comes to corrosion prevention. Most carbon and alloy steels lack the chromium content of stainless steels, making them more susceptible to corrosion, or staining. Therefore, where having a light coat of oil was suggested for the stainless steel blades, it is mandatory for carbon and alloy steels (at least in my book). Again, avoid WD-40, instead go with a good gun oil or mineral spirits. Also, I use petroleum jelly on some of my carbon and alloy baldes, especially if I know they will be in a high salt environment or in storage for a long period. It is a little messier, but I would rather have that than the alternative.
Many carbon and alloy steel blades will come with some kind of coating on blade for added corrosion resistance - all but the edge. In this case, a coating of mineral spirits or oil is still required on the edge, otherwise the edge will stain. If left for too long, the staining will dull the edge. Even with the protective coating, it is a good idea to keep the entire blade lightly coated with oil, just in case.
All the suggestions for folders found in Part 1 would hold for folders made from these types of steels. Fortunately, unless your folder happens to be extremely old, or a very high productioln or custom folder, chances are any folder you have will have some kind of stainless steel.
So, you may be thinking to yourself, "if carbon and alloy steels require so much more attention and love, why bother, when there are great stainless blades out there."
The answer, in the most simplests of terms, is that a knife, just like any other tool, is better suited to some tasks than others. All else being equal, and again, in the most general sense, carbon and alloy steels tend to be stronger and tougher than stainless steels. They are also generally easier to work with and are easier to forge. Stainless steels are okay in blades (generally) with lengths of about 4" or less. Stainless steel blades, generally, that are longer than that tend to have a problem with lateral stress, and can break easier when experiencing those types of stresses. Again, I am going to leave out all of the technical jargon, but this is due to the differences in heat treatments and hardness levels (Rockwell Hardness) present in carbon and alloy steels versus stainless steels.
So, given the above, I would much rather have a long fixed blade knife or sword made from carbon or alloy steel. Sure we've all seen the pretty "440 Series" or "400 series" Stainless Steel swords and katanas. They might even be very sharp (but usually not). But in my opinion, they are only good for decoration, I would never trust my life to a long blade made from stainless steel. There are of course some exceptions to this hard and fast rule, but they are few, and I can't think of any exceptions when it comes to swords.
A good rule of thumb (in my opinion) is that if the blade is going to be long (over 4" - 5") and it is going to see hard use (think machete), it should be made from carbon or alloy steel, and NOT stainless steel, no matter how pretty and decorative the shiny stainless steel makes it look.
Another nice thing about most carbon and alloy steels is that they can also be easier to sharpen and still hold a good edge.
In case anyone wanted an example - the USMC Ka-Bar, viewed by many, even after 60 years, as the penultimate fighting/survival/utility knife, is forged from 1095 Carbon steel.
As stated at the beginning, please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, and eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
I hope this post was helpful.
More Recent Creations
Here are two bracelets with compasses added. The compasses add a bit more "survival flare" to the paracord bracelet. This could be a handy bracelet for outdoor activities.
Here are some more fobs that are done with decorative monkey fists. The purple one in the middle has no core and is pure knot. The other two use a small, light wooden bead as a core. Tying the monkey fist with a core produces a cleaner looking knot in my opinion, but there is still something to be said about the pure knot without any core material. I am still keeping the core material as small and light as possible to avoid these decorative monkey fists being classified as "slungshot". Also, notice how the neon orange/toxic green fob uses a glow-in-the-dark bead, as if it wasn't brigh enough already.
That's it for now for projects. I'll be making more items this weekend, but most of thme will be for my table. Once I get around to making more unique items, I will post them.
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Shameless Self Promotion Post
So, for anyone that is in the area and interested, I am going to have a table for paracord items at the Jupiter Lanes (in the bowling alley parking lot) Flea Market and Craft Fair on Saturday, September 22, from 8:00 am until at least 1:00 pm.
There, short, but sweet.
More posts to follow in the days ahead - specifically a Part 2 on Knife Care, maybe more parts (trying to adhere to the KISS principle, though). Also, more gear reviews and projects.
Stay tuned...
There, short, but sweet.
More posts to follow in the days ahead - specifically a Part 2 on Knife Care, maybe more parts (trying to adhere to the KISS principle, though). Also, more gear reviews and projects.
Stay tuned...
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Basic Knife Care Part 1 - "Stain - LESS" Steels
So, at the request of a friend and follower of the blog, I am doing a post on basic care for knives and multitools. This post on knife care comes from my own perspective and experience, individual readers' mileage may vary. Also, please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, and eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
Before going into ways to care for and maintain knives and multitools, it is important to talk about blade steels. Since this post is intended to be a basic care guide, I'm not going to get too specific or technical on different types of steel and composition. For simplicity sake, I am going to use two categories of blade steel: (1) stainless steel and (2) high carbon and alloy steels. Of the two categories, stainless steels are (generally) easier to maintain and are also the most common category found in folding knives (pocket knives) and multitools.
First, stainless steels, should be thought of as "stain-LESS", because without any care and total neglect, even stainless steels can stain and corrode. They just "stain - less" and are more resistant to corrosion than high carbon and alloy steels, due to the higher content of chromium in stainless steels.
So stainless steels resist corrosion more than carbon and alloy steels, but they still need some care. In general, it's good to keep a light (very light) coating of oil on a stainless blade or tool. It is not necessary, especially if you keep the blade dry and away from moisture and corrosives, like salt. One thing to avoid using, especially on knives that are carried, is WD-40. I prefer to use a good gun oil, like Hoppe's Elite or Sentry Tuff-Glide. Even mineral spirits will work.
So what happens if your blade gets wet? A stainless blade, especially one with a very light coat of oil can simply be wiped off and dried. If the blade is immersed in saltwater, simply wash with soap and fresh water, thoroughly, dry (thoroughly), and reapply light coat of oil.
The above holds with fixed blades and folding knives / tools. However, folders require a little more maintenance. First, folders will tend to get pocket lint in them. Periodically inspect your pocket knives and tools for lint. If you see it, either use canned air to blow it out or a toothpick. This is especially important for locking folders, as pocket lint can get into the locking mechanism, causing it to fail. If canned air doesn't remove all the lint, wash the folder entirely with soap, water, and toothpick. Then dry thoroughly and apply very light coat of oil.
Folders should also have their pivots lubricated, but not overly lubricated. Again, use a good gun oil or light oil (not WD-40) on the pivots periodically, especially if you notice a "grinding" feel or if the folding is overly "tight".
Also, avoid all temptations to take a folder apart. That should only be done in the most extreme cases and then very carefully. The above tips should be able to handle and prevent most instances of corrosion.
However, the above will not do anything for keeping your blade sharp, that is an entirely separate procedure. It is important to keep your blade sharp at all times. The sharpness and retention of edge on a blade is determined by a variety of factors such as type of steel, blade grind, and angle. So to keep things simple, I suggest obtaining a user-friendly sharpening system and follow its directions. Carbide sharpeners, like the Smith's Pocket Pal, are easy and can put a pretty good edge on most blades. However, if you have a premium steel or knife, you may want to avoid carbide sharpeners - they can scratch the blade. I prefer the Spyderco Sharpmaker, as it can sharpen multiple types of blades, including serrated edges, scissors, kitchen cutlery, and knives. It is also a very easy system to learn to use effectively. There are several sources for knife sharpening tips on the Internet so I encourage anyone to that wants more detailed information on knife sharpening to do a simple Internet search.
As stated above, please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
I will follow this with a post on carbon and alloy steels.
I hope this is useful and please post comments and questions.
Before going into ways to care for and maintain knives and multitools, it is important to talk about blade steels. Since this post is intended to be a basic care guide, I'm not going to get too specific or technical on different types of steel and composition. For simplicity sake, I am going to use two categories of blade steel: (1) stainless steel and (2) high carbon and alloy steels. Of the two categories, stainless steels are (generally) easier to maintain and are also the most common category found in folding knives (pocket knives) and multitools.
First, stainless steels, should be thought of as "stain-LESS", because without any care and total neglect, even stainless steels can stain and corrode. They just "stain - less" and are more resistant to corrosion than high carbon and alloy steels, due to the higher content of chromium in stainless steels.
So stainless steels resist corrosion more than carbon and alloy steels, but they still need some care. In general, it's good to keep a light (very light) coating of oil on a stainless blade or tool. It is not necessary, especially if you keep the blade dry and away from moisture and corrosives, like salt. One thing to avoid using, especially on knives that are carried, is WD-40. I prefer to use a good gun oil, like Hoppe's Elite or Sentry Tuff-Glide. Even mineral spirits will work.
So what happens if your blade gets wet? A stainless blade, especially one with a very light coat of oil can simply be wiped off and dried. If the blade is immersed in saltwater, simply wash with soap and fresh water, thoroughly, dry (thoroughly), and reapply light coat of oil.
The above holds with fixed blades and folding knives / tools. However, folders require a little more maintenance. First, folders will tend to get pocket lint in them. Periodically inspect your pocket knives and tools for lint. If you see it, either use canned air to blow it out or a toothpick. This is especially important for locking folders, as pocket lint can get into the locking mechanism, causing it to fail. If canned air doesn't remove all the lint, wash the folder entirely with soap, water, and toothpick. Then dry thoroughly and apply very light coat of oil.
Folders should also have their pivots lubricated, but not overly lubricated. Again, use a good gun oil or light oil (not WD-40) on the pivots periodically, especially if you notice a "grinding" feel or if the folding is overly "tight".
Also, avoid all temptations to take a folder apart. That should only be done in the most extreme cases and then very carefully. The above tips should be able to handle and prevent most instances of corrosion.
However, the above will not do anything for keeping your blade sharp, that is an entirely separate procedure. It is important to keep your blade sharp at all times. The sharpness and retention of edge on a blade is determined by a variety of factors such as type of steel, blade grind, and angle. So to keep things simple, I suggest obtaining a user-friendly sharpening system and follow its directions. Carbide sharpeners, like the Smith's Pocket Pal, are easy and can put a pretty good edge on most blades. However, if you have a premium steel or knife, you may want to avoid carbide sharpeners - they can scratch the blade. I prefer the Spyderco Sharpmaker, as it can sharpen multiple types of blades, including serrated edges, scissors, kitchen cutlery, and knives. It is also a very easy system to learn to use effectively. There are several sources for knife sharpening tips on the Internet so I encourage anyone to that wants more detailed information on knife sharpening to do a simple Internet search.
As stated above, please use care and caution when cleaning and sharpening knives and tools. They are not toys and all safety precautions should be followed, such as never pointing or drawing the blade towards yourself (or others), wear protective gloves, eye protection, and follow all instructions and precautions that come with knives, tools, and sharpeners.
I will follow this with a post on carbon and alloy steels.
I hope this is useful and please post comments and questions.
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
First EDC Gear Review - TEC Accessories P-7 Suspension Clip
So, I am doing my first EDC gear review - the TEC Accessories P-7 Suspension Clip. First, I feel that I need to get this out of the way, for anyone that doesn't know, EDC = Every Day Carry.
I know readers may wonder why I would choose such a small, and seemingly "uninteresting" piece of gear for my first review. The answer is simple - I have come to love this little piece of EDC gear and after using one for a number of months, I can't imagine being without one. It is, in my opinion, one of the primary building blocks of a true and practical EDC system. Since I believe the P-7 is an essential component to a practical EDC system, I chose to start with it for my first review.
The above is what my TEC Accessories P-7 Suspension Clip looks like, and I put it next to a standard key for perspective. The P-7 is designed to hold items that would be normally found on a keychain / key ring. However, the problem with a standard key ring or keychain, is that typically eveything on the key ring simply goes to the bottom of your pocket. The more items on the ring, the bulier the bottom of the pocket gets, resulting somtimes in a visible bulge in one's pocket area.
Now, I don't know about everyone else, but I am required to wear suits at least four days a week for my profession. Having keys and other assorted gear clumped into the bottom of one pcoket gets uncomfortable, especially when you feel the keys or whatever else pocking through the pocket material and into your leg. It's also not good for the pocket material.
Solution: the P-7 Suspension Clip. It clips onto the pocket edge like a folding knife clip does, and "suspends" the items on the split ring mid-way in the pockets. No more bulge at the bottom, no more keys or other gear pocking in the leg. And it works! Not to mention the clip has a very low profile on the pocket edge.
Now that I have metnioned the clip works and does what it is supposed to, let me go over the clip itself. It is a stainless steel clip, and it feels sturdy. It is thick, yet still lightweight, and can clip onto varying thicknesses of pocket. I've had mine securly clipped to the pockets of dress slacks, khakis, cargo pants, jeans, and shorts. On none of them has the clip felt loose.
I have only made one change or modification to my P-7 clip - I removed the split ring that it came with and replaced it with a #6 - 0.38" Stainless Steel Split Ring from Lighthound. I happen to really like the stainless steel split rings from Lighthound.
The important question has yet to be addressed - price. I'll admit that the P-7 is a little pricey, especially for those of us that work for a living. When I first considered getting one, the price was pushing me away. With a MSRP of $12, it seems a bit much to pay for a little keyring-sized gear holder. Especially since I came across directions on the Internet on how to get by with a binder clip. All I can say is that the price, in my opinion, is well worth it. Not only does it work, it's low profile, sturdy, and conveys a "collness" factor that a simple binder clip can't do.
The Tec Accesssories P-7 Suspension Clip is an essential piece of a practical EDC system in my opinion. It is only my opinion, so take that for what it's worth. I will most likely get one or two more for myself in the future, but one is enough, for now...
Above is what my P-7 currently holds - a Gerber Dime (recently replaced my Gerber Mini-Suspension Pliers) and a Mini Keychain Lighter. Both are connected to the P-7 using McGizmo Nano Clips. Both the Mini Keychain Lighter and McGizmo Clips came from Lighthound, and as with the P-7, I replaced the supplied split ring on the Mini Keychain Lighter with a stainless steel one. I intend to replace the original black split ring on the Gerber Dime, with a black split ring from Lighthound in the near future.
I hope this review was useful.
I know readers may wonder why I would choose such a small, and seemingly "uninteresting" piece of gear for my first review. The answer is simple - I have come to love this little piece of EDC gear and after using one for a number of months, I can't imagine being without one. It is, in my opinion, one of the primary building blocks of a true and practical EDC system. Since I believe the P-7 is an essential component to a practical EDC system, I chose to start with it for my first review.
Now, I don't know about everyone else, but I am required to wear suits at least four days a week for my profession. Having keys and other assorted gear clumped into the bottom of one pcoket gets uncomfortable, especially when you feel the keys or whatever else pocking through the pocket material and into your leg. It's also not good for the pocket material.
Solution: the P-7 Suspension Clip. It clips onto the pocket edge like a folding knife clip does, and "suspends" the items on the split ring mid-way in the pockets. No more bulge at the bottom, no more keys or other gear pocking in the leg. And it works! Not to mention the clip has a very low profile on the pocket edge.
Now that I have metnioned the clip works and does what it is supposed to, let me go over the clip itself. It is a stainless steel clip, and it feels sturdy. It is thick, yet still lightweight, and can clip onto varying thicknesses of pocket. I've had mine securly clipped to the pockets of dress slacks, khakis, cargo pants, jeans, and shorts. On none of them has the clip felt loose.
I have only made one change or modification to my P-7 clip - I removed the split ring that it came with and replaced it with a #6 - 0.38" Stainless Steel Split Ring from Lighthound. I happen to really like the stainless steel split rings from Lighthound.
The important question has yet to be addressed - price. I'll admit that the P-7 is a little pricey, especially for those of us that work for a living. When I first considered getting one, the price was pushing me away. With a MSRP of $12, it seems a bit much to pay for a little keyring-sized gear holder. Especially since I came across directions on the Internet on how to get by with a binder clip. All I can say is that the price, in my opinion, is well worth it. Not only does it work, it's low profile, sturdy, and conveys a "collness" factor that a simple binder clip can't do.
The Tec Accesssories P-7 Suspension Clip is an essential piece of a practical EDC system in my opinion. It is only my opinion, so take that for what it's worth. I will most likely get one or two more for myself in the future, but one is enough, for now...
I hope this review was useful.
More Recent Projects
Here are some more recent projects that I completed. I saw the paracord ringed cross on Stormdrane's Blog, and between his instructions and those that can be found on JD's Tying It All Together YouTube Channel, I was able to put together a few ringed crosses. I am still experimenting with them, as I beleive they make nice additions to a key ring or fob/lanyard, especially after seeing some of the examples on Stormdrane's Blog.
The above were a few fobs I made. The Spydercos pictured are the Sprint Run Jester and the Ocelot. Note the fob on the Ocelot has a Spyderco logo bead. These beads were recently released by Spyderco and make a nice addition to a Spyderco.
This last piece is a fob that has a monkey fist and snake knots. The monkey fist does not have any core, meaning it is purely a knot, and therefore, decorative only. I've been experimenting lately with alternative methods of tying monkey fists - no core, small wooden bead, and ping pong balls. One may ask why - it is to avoid the possibility of the moneky fist being classified as "slungshot". I really like the monkey fist knot, but I have avoided making them with the usual core material, since I would like to avoid any chances of it being misconstrued as a "slungshot". Also, I'm hoping that a ping pong ball core will result in a floating key fob, which could be very handy for things like boat keys.
Monday, August 27, 2012
So, for my first "real" post. I'm going to post some examples of some recent and past 550 Paracord projects that I have done. Most of the items in the pictures have been sold, given as gifts to family and friends, or is still available for sale at an upcoming local craft fair or gun show. I was hoping to have sold some of the current inventory at a craft fair this weekend, but Tropical Storm Isaac dictated otherwise.
This is a neck lanyard that I made for my wife to use for ID badges at events. I made one for myself as well, but in black and gray, instead of black and purple. Each one of these types of lanyards uses approximately 46 feet of paracord - 2 individual strands of about 23 feet each.
This is a luggage tag and bracelet I made for my wife. I have other examples of the luggage tag that is essentially a trilobite bar with a few diamond (lanyard) knots and some snake knots. The bracelet is a stitched Solomon bar.
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Here are some more bracelets: a stitched Solomon bar in red, white, and blue; a thatched Solomon bar (aka "Digicam"); Thin Red Line Solomon bar; a zombie themed toxic green and black ladder rack; and a black and white wide Solomon bar.
Assorted fobs and lanyards that I have recently made.
I am working on more fobs and lanyards and will have some more to post in the near future.
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I am working on more fobs and lanyards and will have some more to post in the near future.
This is my first post and my first blog. I'm no stranger to commenting on other blogs and forums, but this is my first attempt at having my own blog, so this will be an ongoing learning process. Eventually, I may become a sophisticated blogger, but probably not. For now, at least, I'm happy that the initial template is completed and I'm able to start rambling.
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